Julia Chernoivan - Editor in Chief of MODNY DOM Magazine, well-known critic and modeling producer. After 6 years of a brilliant career in modeling and publishing business, today, Julia is able to easily determine the standards imposed on girls by the leading model agencies around the world. Continuing the topic of the issue «New York! New York!», the «fashion editor» shares invaluable tips and answers the question: «How to become a supermodel in New York?».

My advice suits better those who already live in New York or have the opportunity to come there, residing in the USA. I will write about how to find a good job without leaving a country in the next issue. In that case, the chances of finding a job quickly are decreased and have specific nuances, as everything depends on the whims and attitudes of local mother agencies and managers. It is important to know that even the most famous of them are not always able to adequately assess the trends.

 In other words, it’s better catching the eye of New York live agent without intermediaries. Therefore, if you are already in New York, you’re lucky. I almost forgot - all this assumes that you can communicate with agents in English at least at some level...

What’s better: writing, calling or meeting personally?

“Don’t forget to call them tomorrow”, the booker has joked and pointed on the trash box with his finger - there were buried almost 99% of the materials sent or brought to him by new models, as well as their managers.

 The meaning of this joke is that the next day the trash will be empty. It would be done by the cleaner, and there’ll be no calls. Sounds sore, but most of the candidates will go there anyway, no matter how hard they try, and no matter how much money they’ve invested in that portfolio. However, there are those who could avoid such a fate and even make good modeling career, if only they have taken the case a little more seriously.

 Don’t think that just an appearance and a height do allow you to become a model. Better pay attention to these clues about what is worth doing and not when you come in touch with a famous modeling agency.

What to do with your visa status?

If you do not have US citizenship - honestly describe your visa status. When applying for a job, this process will need to be repeated legally. The agency shall take care of your working visa (which, incidentally, is not so difficult to do, if the agency is really interested in you).

If you live in another city, far from the agency, make the brief note on when you’re planning to move closer. Sooner or later, you will have to visit them personally. If you do not want to move, then it is not necessary to send the application.

Attach correct photos. Nobody wants to see your pics with a cocktail on the beach or in a bar with friends. Arrange your photographs taken exclusively for the agency.

Snapshots are a must-have. In addition, a good option can be snapshots of the prestigious paid modeling work in the niche occupied by the agency. If you have the portfolio of work created for the “Vogue” or the national advertising campaign that’s definitely better than snaps. But not every can show such things, so proceed to the next point.

Call the agency and ask what photos are necessary to them. Usually, modeling agencies that specialize in “fashion models”, in the very beginning just want to see your snapshots. Those of them who specializes in the commercial market want to see a high-quality professional composite card or photos. They may ask both. It all depends on the preferences of the agency itself.

But in general, at once to put a lot of money for professional photos is not always a good investment, so it is better to start with the simple and just try with snaps. If not, then do tests. Making the latter of high-quality is very expensive. Indeed, in New York, professional photographer services are expensive. Note also that professional photographer from Russia, there, in the US, may be quoted as average. Therefore, do not count on “cool & cheap” tests.

If you do already have the professional shots - check their direction and style. If you apply to the agency specializing in “editorial fashion” models, your shots for advertising or lifestyle photos would be inappropriate (they may even push the agency away, read the next point).

If you apply to a commercial agency, on the contrary, the photos in editorial fashion style would not be what they actually might want. Do not send glamour photos. The only case if the Agency specializes in this type of models.

How to get hired by New York model agency without intermediaries?

Here goes the answer – come personally! If you can - just run to the agency in visiting hours! Photos are good, but it is much better when they see you in person. A professional will find out everything from the first moment of seeing you. There are lots of examples where someone is constantly rejected after reviewing photos, but at once accepted after a personal meeting. This may be due to a variety of reasons. For example, your own taste (bad selection of your own shots). Then, if you live in another city, just submit your application by regular mail.

Before you send an e-mail to the agency, ask them by phone if they are considering new faces, submitted by e-mail. Some of them do not! Other agencies, basically, do not mind to receive and review an e-mail with your application and your photos, but very few agents consider this method preferable. There is a number of reasons why they do not like to receive such letters from candidates. Read them and try to arrange everything right.

Many people do not know how to draw up e-mails. Somebody sends images of unknown format, and someone else sends too large pictures that look awkward, others send too small photos, and so on. There are even models that do not bother to rotate photos.

 Do not send a bunch of images without specifying your height parameters, city and phone number, because all this agent wants to receive right away. Nobody wants to write responses, hoping to get at least some contacts or other data, especially if there may be more than a hundred of such letters per day.

 A lot of people send letters from the addresses on www.aol.com, not knowing that this service cuts the attached photos which are sent to other domains. As a result, your pics simply do not reach the addressee. Others send links to their profile on Facebook, and the agent must enjoy your photos with mom, dad, and friend in some bar instead of the normal review of snaps.

 As a result, many agents simply hate e-mails as the channel for new faces. And, even if you draw a letter correctly, it can be lost among a heap of remaining letters in a spam folder. The fact is that the addresses of agencies are mentioned in many catalogs and other websites on the network and more famous the address is, the more spam collapses on it. That is another reason why the agent can «dig out» his mailbox with sleeves rolled up, and miss your letter out of sight. If from the topic of the letter it is unclear that you are a new face - your letter might be mistakenly taken for spam and removed without even opening.

 Applications received in «electronic way» are more difficult to remember, and then to find. A plain paper folder is much more convenient, even in our age of computer technologies! They can just forget about you! There are no irreplaceable people. They will forget about you, and tomorrow will find someone else, and will not worry about you. A traditional paper folder containing your paper application with your height and other parameters and printed snaps and “comp card” is much easier to find in order to show somebody, and much more difficult to lose. It will lie on the table, and the agent will continue to stumble on it as long as makes the decision to call you or deliberately throw out it, but that’s another story – at least it is not so offensive as being simply lost in the folders of mail agent. Of course, there are exceptions. If the agent is already waiting for some information, of course, it is easier to send it by e-mail, and then call and remind.

 If you have no other choice but to send photos and information via e-mail - follow these guidelines:

- add photos directly into the letter or provide a link to every shot of those that you would like to show, rather than giving a link to some page where a pile of your personal photos is mixed with snaps;

• photos should be of correct size and format: not larger than 450-600 pixels high, and only JPEG (also known as JPG) format. Do not send archives, and photos inserted into the Word document. Nobody would open such files. In addition, they often cannot be opened in Macs;

• send a separate letter to each agent, because when you put 10 addresses under «copy to» field - the recipient sees that, and you are not taken seriously as a result.

Why do some agents hate e-mails as a method of communication?

Each agency has its preferences in this regard. Some of them have “open calls”, i.e. visiting hours for new faces when you can come in person. And that’s the best option. Other agencies - have them not. Some agree to receive the application by e-mail, while others - do not. It’s their choice. Someone can easily assign you a meeting, and someone – cannot until would be seriously interested in you.

99% of agencies without any problems will accept and review your application by regular mail (NOT e-mail)! Generally, in the US, regular mail is still an effective channel of communication, as it works quickly and smoothly, and American businesses are accustomed to receive and send correspondence in this way. The main thing to do is to find out what exactly does the agency want to see, and give it to them.

 The phone is for questions. Call if you want to find out whether the agency has open calls (visiting hours for new people), or to find out how they prefer to receive applications, and what they want to see therein some general requirements. Sometimes, you can arrange a meeting by phone. But it is a rarity. Call only during working hours. If you call in a time off and leave a message on the answering machine asking to call you back - they’ll ignore it. If you cannot call in time, what kind of model you are?!

Call on your own. If your guy will call, or cousin, or your «manager», whom the agency had never heard of - that’s a serious drawback. The question is, why you’re unable to call yourself? The agent thinks, perhaps you do not know that your friend is going to make you a model? Such things happen all the time. So why should he be distracted by you?

 What exactly does the agent want to know about you?

 So, you should submit your application to the model agency:

 Don’t overcomplicate things! The Agency wants to know: your age, eye color, hair, shoes and dress size, height and other parameters (for women-bust/waist/hips, for men-jacket size and waist), as well as the actual place of residence. It’s everything you need along with photos.

 If you are represented by another modeling agency - tell about it. But, as practice shows, it is often more negative than positive nuance. So this question is yours. It is important to understand that the Agency DOESN’T WANT to know about that you have dreamed your whole life to become a model, and that you took third place in the beauty contest in Samara, and that you have graduated acting courses. They are also not interested in your experience of classes at model school or at which model websites you have your own page, etc.

Оnly if you have a really great professional modeling or acting experience - just mention it briefly. When your data will be interesting for them, at this stage, the second stage will be “getting closer”, and they’ll want to learn more details. But not at once! And they will ask you about everything on their own, so do not waste your and people’s time on superfluous information.

 Be sure to include all contact information: phone number, E-mail, Skype, Viber, etc.

 Do not ask to get in touch with somebody else other than you personally. No “call my agent” things. Just think, why do you need somebody to answer your phone if you’re already visiting and searching at a place on your own?

What’s next?

In most agencies, no one will write a response and call you back, if you did not manage to become interesting. A common practice when they do not bother with a polite refusal. Everyone has a lot of work. Usually, you will be forgotten a minute after they saw photos unless they are interested in you. If you call and ask if they have received your pics and what you will find - as a rule, nobody knows anything about it. Again, it’s important to understand – they just do not remember! There are toomany girls who want to become models to memorize all of them. So, if you do not get a response within a reasonable time (one, or a maximum of two weeks), it is likely, you will never get it. After that, you can try again, but varying something: sending other pictures, or going in person to the

agency. If that fails - try another agency, in New York, there are plenty of them!